We wanted an adventure and had thought about Columbia. 'cause its close, (we are living in Panama for the winter) but is it safe to bring the kids, we wondered? As we organized with a local travel agent who came well recommended, we asked all the questions, hinting at the anxiety we were feeling about our planned destination, not wanting to sound too "gringo". The travel agent, Sandra, at "Ce Viaje", assured me that it was very nice and we would have lots of fun. So we wrote the cheque, went to the airport and flew off to Columbia. On the way to the airport, it dawned on me that it would be a full moon this evening and for much of the time we would be there, and my imagination started to go wild with thoughts of extra sensory "issues", and strange "personalities" that may appear on a moon lit night in Cartagena.

Cartagena is a historical city on the Caribbean Sea coast of Columbia, and has a bit more than 1 million inhabitants. The name comes from an Indian Princess, named Cartagena de Indies who became a translator and lover of an early Spanish Governor. Columbia, not a huge country never the less has a total population of about 45 million. Cartagena is a city founded in 1533, one of the very oldest in the Americas settled by Europeans, this one founded by the Spanish of course and was unique at that time and today, for the walled fortifications it possesses, as protection from English Pirates. A very thick and chunky, low wall circles the city and runs they tell me for 17 kilometers. It appears to be made of great, meter square blocks of coral, is about 20 feet tall and 40 feet thick most places, complete with "gun runs" or holes in the wall for placement of cannon, of which there are many still in place. Inside the wall there are those narrow streets you have seen in pictures with beautiful, richly colored residences with balconies hanging over the narrow streets, dangling hanging plants and flowers. The streets are crowded with people walking, and taxis maneuvering, and horse drawn carriages guiding tourists. Along the streets there are variously; shops, restaurants and residences. In the many plazas there are more restaurants and statues of famous heroes of the past, and people enjoying the shade of the great trees.

In an effort to fortify myself, I indulged in one of the best treatments for malaria you can find, a tall Gin and Tonic, quite the best one I've ever had by the way, very stiff. There is no malaria, but one can never be too sure. Our hotel was located in a newer premium area of Cartagena that reminds one of Punta Paitilla in Panama City, as it has a sky line of tall buildings, apartments and hotels. The Capilla Del Mar was right on the beach, and afforded its' clients a special part of the beach. The management had little beach tents put up in rows where you set your lawn chairs to avoid some of the sun. Of course we met a fellow right away who; essentially a waiter, became my personal connection for drinks and such. Nothing is cheap in this part of Cartagena, but it is fair, one of the locals explained that this part of Cartagena is like South Beach, Florida, in that it is very much a tourist Mecca. Frosty beer delivered to your chair was right around $1.50. Rum drinks closer to $ 6.50.

The waves coming in off the Caribbean were vigorous, warm and fun to frolic in as we soon discovered, but watch out for the sun, it was tropical and scorching. After some hours on the beach we made our way to the roof top pool and bar area, where we daily cleaned the salt off our bodies in the cool refreshment of the sweet water of the pool. The view was panoramic. There to the west was a view of the sky scrapers ending in Boca Grande, an opening in the water way that leads into the inner harbor of old Cartagena. To the north the waves crashing in from the expanse of the Caribbean, to the East you could see the entire walled city, the great fortress of San Philippe, and the highest point in Cartagena, the white visage of the Monastery of La Papa, high on the hill. Finally to the south, the inner harbor and the ship traffic coming in through Boca Chica, from all over the world, the Columbia Navy yard, the docks in the distance and the sailing yachts plying back and forth. Quite a beautiful site to see.

My blood pressure was starting to settle down and my comfort level was beginning to moderate, but I am a planner so I tend to think ahead. I warned the kids that they should observe all the rules about staying close and not sharing too much personal information with the people we happen to meet. The problem was with the opposition; the people on the streets were all on commission from some outfit, and asked constantly; did we want a T-Shirt, Cigars, Sandals, what about a hat Senor? the sun is muy fuerte, or beads for the little girl, don't forget sunglasses, Rae Ban, or Mont Blanc watches, senor? It was incessant as flies. Even when you would retreat into a restaurant it was possible to have someone come by with an offer for a city tour or a boat tour to Isla Rosario, and always the constant "promotion senor, special price for you". At first I would engage them in a bit of banter in Spanish, telling them we were from Canada where even the sea was made of ice these days. The expression I got was one of; "I know it could be true but I never spoke to anyone who actually lived there before." "Really, minus 20 and the sea is frozen so hard you could drive a car on it?" They would ask with bewilderment, much to my personal glee.

The interaction helped break down our walls of apprehension but did nothing to dissuade their zeal for making a buck, and although I can't blame them it forced a new approach of dismissal, and a firm "No", that was not pleasant. The kids finally told me; "Simply say no, Daddy", they were becoming fed up too. I think it is the price of adventure that must be born, tolerance was needed and we managed very well. We have lots of souvenirs, a new hat or two, cigars enough for the rest of the trip and bargaining skills sharpened to a razors edge, to boot! Actually we met and interacted with some wonderful entrepreneurs and enjoyed it for the most part. After supper we repaired back to our hotel and I made my way out to the balcony to take in the night sights and sounds while I enjoyed one of my new cigars. The kids, discovering ways to earn some spending money decided they could do massages, and apply "After Sun" creams, for a fee. Barb and I indulged them with a certain "Coyote" smile and exchanged wink, it was bliss, although my daughter charged us for pouring our drinks and allowing me to smoke my cigar too, which I thought was a bit zealous of her. I guess I shouldn't complain; the service was "princely".

Everything about Cartagena; from the clean and well run airport, the service and friendliness of the officials and staff, the quality of the bus the whisked us off to our hotel, or the quality of the hotel Capilla del Mar, made us think affectionately about our time in Columbia. Ce Viaje, located in Ball Harbour Mall in Punta Paitilla, Panama City, our travel agents, had arranged that the departure tax was prepaid and that was a pleasant surprise too! Day by day our tans deepened, and our familiarity with the city grew. My friend; Oswaldo the waiter on the beach, kept us cared for as did the ever present, young security guards and tourist police, who would venture closer when the scrum of vendors got too large around us or seemed too intent. A point I must include; there was a very professional life guard on the beach, who kept a vigil on our safety, monitoring the ladies as they bathed, and keeping an eye on the kids as well. So was it safe? The answer is unequivocal, "Yes", but even more, it was exciting and different and delicious.

We'll be back, Cartagena.